DESERT DREAMLANDDESERT DREAMLAND

Desert Drives

RIVER ROAD (51 miles) Of all the River Roads in a state full of them, the one that belongs on every Big Bend bucket list is the route along the park border with Mexico. Manageable in a vehicle with high clearance, though even better with four-wheel drive (or an adequate motorbike). In 1952, the irascible author Ed Abbey, who knew a thing or two about rugged desert, attempted the drive and finished “crabwise, humping up and down on the eccentric camber of the flat.” Modern SUVs make the journey from Rio Grande Village to Castolon a bit easier. Although to see the Rio Grande requires a detour, the rewards of overlanding include exquisite solitude, backcountry campsites and way-off-the-beaten-path hikes like Elephant Tusk and Dominguez Springs.

OLD ORE ROAD (26.5 miles) Running north-south along the arid eastern interior of the national park, this track originated as part of a transportation system that carried zinc, silver and lead from Mexican mines near Boquillas through Persimmon Gap to the railhead at Marathon. High clearance and four-wheel drive are prerequisites, although some adventurers find type-2 fun in tackling Old Ore Road on mountain bikes (contact Desert Sports in Terlingua for details). Whether approached from Dagger Flats to the north or from the south near Rio Grande Village, the rough route’s proximity to the Dead Horse Mountains gives some indication of the adventure that lies ahead. Sharp rocks and steep inclines certainly add to the challenge. Along the way, access the remote trails of Telephone Canyon, Ernst Tinaja and Tinaja Carlota.

HISTORIC RANCHES

SAM NAIL RANCH An easy path loops through what remains of a 1916 homestead: a chicken coop, a garden and the crumbling adobe walls of Sam Nail’s home. Tall willow, pecan and soapberry trees grant shade.

HOMER WILSON RANCH The remnants of one of the largest ranches in the Big Bend, abandoned in 1945: a ranch house, a dipping vat for sheep and goats, and a corral nearly overtaken by vegetation. The house was built with stone from Blue Creek Canyon, timber from the Chisos and reeds for the ceiling from the Rio Grande.

It’s not for nothing that the state park’s unofficial motto is “BringTwo Spares.” Still, most vehicles can safely brave the unpaved road to Sauceda, the park’s headquarters. The park entrance lies about 13 miles south of Presidio; from there, the drive to HQ is 20 miles. Numerous spots on the way offer chances to learn about the region’s first inhabitants. After you round the curve just past Rancho Viejo, watch for an exhibit on rock art to your right. Pack plenty of water and salty snacks so you can explore the CINCO TINAJAS trail system, one of the best the interior of the park has to offer. The ranger station itself boasts a fancy guesthouse (if the rangers aren’t busy, ask for a tour to see the medieval-inspired mural). And for those who want to explore deep into the park without pitching a tent, the SAUCEDA BUNKHOUSE can be booked by the public.

In the 1880s, a sea captain turned railroad surveyor saw a resemblance to the landscape of Marathon, Greece, and gave the tiny outpost of Marathon, TX—initially a shipping hub for local ranchers—its name. Today, the town is a small but mighty last stop before turning south to the national park. 

Navigating the Big Bend region is almost always a long haul, and by the time you arrive, a refreshing swim will probably sound like paradise. Once you check in at the delightfully Old-West-y GAGE HOTEL, savor a cool plunge in the pool; depending on drought levels and the state of the shallow-to-dry Rio Grande, this may be your last true swim for a long while. Or, maybe an exploration of town is in order. Renowned photographers and longtime Big Bend explorers JAMES H. EVANS and E. DAN KLEPPER both have great galleries in Marathon. 

Once you’ve spiffed yourself up for the evening—or not; no one in laid-back Marathon will care what you’re wearing—your next stop is the WHITE BUFFALO BAR for the best house margs within many miles. Give your regards to the namesake white buffalo head that features prominently on the wall. The story goes that the hotel’s original owner, rancher Alfred Gage, bought an entire museum to attain it. (Do not attempt to pull off its horns, as one guest reportedly did a few years back, leading to very expensive repairs.) Dinner’s right next door for chicken fried steak with jalapeno gravy at the 12 GAGE, reservations recommended. (Yes, the Gage is a big presence here.) Or if you’re there on a Friday, snag a reservation for burger night at FRENCH CO GROCER. The shop offers everything you need for your desert journeys, too, including fresh-made breakfast burritos the next morning.  

Big Bend is exceptional in many ways, but the fact that you can take a rowboat to another country for lunch ranks right up there. THE BOQUILLAS PORT OF ENTRY is the only non-vehicle crossing between the U.S. and Mexico without a customs agent present (passports are still required). Boquillas is even more remote than towns in the American Big Bend—the nearest grocery store is in Múzquiz, a 4.5-hour drive via mostly dirt roads—and the town thrives on American tourism. Dollars are accepted everywhere, but there are no ATMs, so come with cash. The rowboat ride across the Rio Grande costs $3. From there, you can walk the quarter mile into town or pay $10 for a truck or donkey ride. On your way to one of the two restaurants in town, expect to be approached by small children hawking embroidered bracelets—to attain instant local celebrity status, bring along American snacks to hand out to the youngsters in lieu of cash.

For a deeper Boquillas experience, consider hiring a guide. The most established vendor in town is BOQUILLAS ADVENTURES, a joint venture between old-time river guide Mike Davidson and Boquillas locals. They’ve formulated more involved trips further into Coahuila, including rare access to the Maderas del Carmen Protection Area.

For a more mom-and-pop experience, many Boquillas residents offer tours through Facebook and WhatsApp—town judge Chalo Diaz and local mom Adriana Sanchez Valdez are both excellent guides with unique perspectives. They can help plan side trips, like a jaunt to the hot springs on the Mexican side or a horseback ride through Boquillas Canyon.

Part of the University of Texas at Austin, despite being quite a haul from the state capital, McDonald Observatory is a world-class astronomical research facility. It’s way up high, and far from almost everything—key selling points when the location was selected. The clear views of star-filled skies are wellworth the climb into the Davis Mountains. 

FOR THE STARGAZER

Not all the action here occurs at night: By day, guided tours take visitors to see the research telescopes up close. One big highlight: standing on the dome floor, just feet away from the 107-foot Harlan J. Smith telescope,and watching the whole thing turn around you, as it does at night to change the telescope’s view. But most people come for the evening star party, beginning in the outdoor amphitheater with an introduction and a constellation tour. For the rest of the evening, guests are invited to look through telescopes trained on whatever is most enticingly visible that night—moon phases, galaxies and more. It’s no coincidence that the rustic adobe Indian Lodge, just down the road in Davis Mountains State Park, books up on star party nights, so plan ahead.

FOR THE SCIENCE ENTHUSIAST

Star parties are pretty special, but the observatory’s special viewing events are on a whole other level. These events, limited to just 14 or 15 participants, offer a unique and intimate chance to look through the large research telescopes that are off-limits to the public most of the time. As an added bonus, special-event attendees can stay at the on-site Astronomers’ Lodge. The accommodations are spartan, but the views are unbeatable, as is the company: you’ll share meals with the astronomers themselves as they travel through for research—though your dinner may be their breakfast before they head off to their night-owl duties.

When making plans, keep an eye on the moon. Nights around the new moon are darkest and starriest. But clouds can mar even a moonless night, so cross your fingers for clear skies (and remember that the rainy season, beginning in July, is unpredictable).