Head to Colorado for Hot Springs Heaven
Strawberry Park Hot Springs is a coveted destination for heat-seekers.
Strawberry Park Hot Springs is the place to heat up this winter.
Colorado is a lucky place: It has 93 known hot springs, stashed in some of the country’s most scenic territory. The super-charged waters have been bubbling up between the Earth’s fractures since the formation of the Rocky Mountains.
These days, the springs range from all-natural to super-luxe. You’ll find them tucked into mountain forests and ghost towns, like steaming oases. But one famed town in particular gets its name from the sounds these geothermal phenomena make. As legend goes, French trappers along the Yampa River mistook a spring for the whistle of a boat's steam engine. They called the place Steamboat Springs. Since then, many have made the three-hour trek from Denver to the ski town—but it's also worth a steep climb, 15 minutes farther, to Strawberry Park Hot Springs.
Unlike some other hot springs resorts that feel like, well, resorts, Strawberry Park feels like part of the mountain itself. Its stone pools fold into the landscape. To get there, drivers will need 4-wheel or all-wheel drive with snow tires or chains through April. The reward: Steam rising from 104-degree pools tucked into an aspen grove as snow falls softly, the waters bringing to surface a natural stew of the Earth's minerals collected during their rise. “It’s so remote out there,” says Steamboat local Steph Yarbrough. With her husband Nate, Steph runs Explorist.Life, both a YouTube channel and a DIY-oriented electrical service working with campervan travelers. “A lot of people recommend going at night to see the stars. But just being able to go in the day and see the beautiful scenery— you’re surrounded by the mountains.”
The Yarbroughs have adventured all over the state, and moved to Steamboat from Denver a few years ago. The first time they came across Strawberry Park, it was an accident—they had no idea this gem lay at the end of their hike.
ROAD INTEL FROM WILDSAM'S GUIDE TO THE COLORADO ROCKIES
To reach Steamboat Springs from Denver, take I-70 west through Eisenhower Tunnel. Pit stop in Silverthorne at The Argentos (273 Summit Pl) for a dozen empanadas: try the corn and chorizo. Take CO-9 North to Kremmling before heading west on US-40.
F.M. Light & Sons is the stop for Western wear. Five generations of the Light family have been outfitting the West since 1905. 830 Lincoln Ave., Steamboat Springs
Where to Camp:
Steamboat Springs KOA is the only RV site in town, with easy Yampa River access for fishing and tubing in warmer weather.
Stagecoach State Park, a 20-minute drive from town, has 92 campsites across four campgrounds, boat rentals for lake excursions and guided snowshoe hikes and ice fishing in winter.
Strawberry Park is part of a long history, and today, a stop on a circuit of hot-water plunges in the Colorado mountains. The Ute and Arapaho tribes of the Yampa Valley considered the area's mineral springs both medicinal and sacred for healing body and spirit. With the gold rush of the mid-1800s came white settlers, who also took to the waters before Colorado became a state in 1876. By 1885, Old Town Hot Springs had been established close to the heart of Steamboat Springs. It now includes eight pools, with waterslides and a lap pool. A couple hour’s drive south, Yampah Vapor Caves dates to 1887. Glenwood Hot Springs Resort, reputedly the world's largest, was established a year later.
While the waters have existed for eons, Strawberry Park Hot Springs was established in 1981, with the build-out of the springs and rustic cabins. The amenities aren’t necessarily modern—in the best of ways. You certainly won’t find Wi-Fi here, and there’s barely any electricity or running water— certainly none in the cabins themselves. At night, lighting is minimal and the springs are adults-only and clothing-optional under an unmarred Milky Way.
In winter, a soak amid snow-covered mountains can happen after skiing Steamboat’s trademarked “champagne powder.” In autumn when the aspens turn golden, visitors to Strawberry Park can hike trails clear of snow. Nature has even done you the kindness of putting the hot spring at the top of the trail. After a soak, it’s all downhill from there.
WHAT TO KNOW AND WHERE TO GO
Reserve ahead: Strawberry Park Hot Springs is a popular place. Reservations encouraged. The venue is cash-only. strawberryhotsprings.com
Adults-only stargazing: The hot springs are clothing-optional at night, so kids can’t enter after dark.
Make sure your car can handle the journey: The road to the park is steep and unpaved. In winter, vehicles are required by county law to have 4WD and snow tires or chains. If your rental won’t make it, contact The Hot Springs Shuttle or Sweet Pea Tours for a ride from town.
Where to eat in town: The Yarbroughs recommend Back Door Grill for burgers, How Ya Doin Pizza and Eatz for pizza, and Bésame for upscale cocktails. They say Steamboat Springs boasts an exceptional happy hour game, so keep an eye out for deals and associated revelry.
Take a hike: Start with Emerald Mountain, near downtown: dozens of hiking and biking trails ranging in length and difficulty.
A view for all: The Fish Creek Falls Picnic Site offers a quarter-mile, wheelchair-and stroller-friendly trail overlooking a 280-foot waterfall.
Not your second rodeo? The Steamboat Pro Rodeo series is a true Western cultural experience. Rodeos are on Friday and Saturday nights from mid-June through late August.
Soak away: The Colorado Historic Hot Springs Loop hits 23 springs over a gorgeous 800-mile drive. cohotspringsloop.com
