Italian-American Flavor Down in the Delta
TO REACH THE MISSISSIPPI DELTA, you either cross the Mississippi from Arkansas or descend from the Hill Country of North Mississippi, leaving the rambling countryside and winding roads for long straightaways, with barely a lean in the highway. The speed limits drop to alert you of a hamlet or small town approaching, connected only by long stretches of flat farmland. It’s best to heed the warnings, slow down and take it all in.
The Delta vibrates differently. Our country has many famous regions, but few with an aura like this.
Sure, the air of distinction emanates from the music born here. But it’s also the food, the people, the culture and traditions. You can get a glimpse of what all the fuss is about during lunch rush at Fratesi Grocery and Service Station, currently run by three brothers, passed down from their father and uncle in Leland, Mississippi.
In 1902, Mark, Kenny, and Louie Fratesi’s paternal grandfather immigrated to America from Ancona, Italy, making his way to Sunnyside Plantation to work as a sharecropper. A few years later, he moved to Tribbett, Mississippi, just a few miles from where the grocery sits today. A neighbor sold him 300 acres, and farming became the way of life for him and his family. Sons Tony and Larry shared the family duties, with Larry in the field and Tony behind the counter at the family grocery and café.
“My dad ran the store most of the time and took care of the business end of the farm,” Mark says. “But they both helped out where needed. You know, just like my two brothers and I do now.”
At 11:15, the lull between breakfast and lunch breaks quickly as regulars go to the counter to order their usual selections and find their seats, almost as if the school cafeteria has never left this bunch. Many of the regulars grew up together and have known the brothers their whole lives, creating a nearly unspoken understanding between the customers and the staff. Seats are scarce, but the service is fast, and the food is served with great attention. Kenny and Louie seem to know everyone’s orders and preferences.
You’ll find usual Southern favorites like catfish or shrimp po’boy, but you’ll also find the unique creation of the fried olive po’boy. It’s like eggplant parmesan and boudin balls were paired into a meat(less)ball sub. The chopped olives combined with cheese and fried, then topped with a classic red sauce, lean on the Fratesi’s roots to create a new Italian American classic in the heart of the Mississippi Delta. Request a side of the fried okra, which feels more like eating popcorn than anything else. Perfectly crispy, without feeling greasy, this is a hard thing to master. But given that the Fratesi family had been doing it since 1941, they’ve had a long time to perfect their art.
