An Epic 7-Day Road Trip Itinerary Across the Desert Southwest

Named by conquistador Francisco Vázquez de Coronado during a 16th-century expedition for the Seven Cities of Gold, the “Painted Desert” near Holbrook, AZ, earns its stripes with boldly banded formations in a rainbow of colors. Rock jocks will tell you that bluish colors mean the soils formed under ancient oceans, while reds and pinks mean they were exposed to air. Most importantly, photographers capture the most saturated hues an hour after sunrise or an hour before sunset. 

CONSCIENCE PILE: According to local lore, the park’s 200-million-year-old namesake fossilized wood is cursed. And the bad juju gets results. The park receives so many returns from spooked thieves that they’ve created a “conscience pile” where rangers stack pieces as a warning.

LODGING: Wigwam Motel
CAMPING: Desert Skies Campground 
SHOP: Painted Desert Indian Center 

THE GREAT SOUTHWEST COLLECTION

Collect Wildsam's Southwest Guides with this seven book collection. Includes Grand Canyon, Zion, Big Bend, Joshua Tree, Colorado Rockies, Santa Fe and Las Vegas.

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In the winter of 1863-1964, under the command of then-Colonel Kit Carson, the United States Army stormed through the labyrinthine 35-mile Canyon de Chelly (pronounced “Shay”) as part of a broader offensive against the Navajo, who had retreated to the sacred canyon as a final stronghold. Though many Navajo survived by hiding in the cliffs, the army burned their settlements and destroyed their peach orchards, leaving no choice but surrender. Thousands of Navajo were forced to endure the Long Walk to resettlement 300 miles away at Bosque Redondo, where they faced starvation and brutality from their captors. The land proved unable to support the 10,000 men, women and children who were held there, so they were permitted to return to their homeland in 1868. Today, around 75 Navajo families live in Canyon de Chelly. Visitors are only permitted to enter under the supervision of a park service or Navajo guide, who will take you by horseback. canyondechellytours.com 

LODGING: Thunderbird Lodge 
CAMPING: Cottonwood Campground 
SHOP: Park Store

9 AM

Hike and climb ladders at Bandelier National Monument on a 1.2-mile loop trail that covers multi-story cliff dwellings, the foundation of an enormous pueblo and a ceremonial kiva in a cave hundreds of feet off the valley floor.

11 AM

More than a million years ago, a volcanic explosion created the Valles Caldera, a 13-mile-wide depression in the heart of the Jemez Mountains. Today, herds of elk graze the caldera, now a vast meadow.

1 PM

The same geological activity that formed the caldera heats the San Antonio Hot Springs to around 105 degrees. Find them five miles up Forest Road 376, a rough dirt road that’s open summer and early fall. If the road is closed to cars, the tiered pools and forest scenery are worth the hike.

4 PM

In summer months when the road is clear, take Forest Road 376 the other way, 17 miles into a dramatic Box Canyon. On one side, the Rio Guadalupe dumps over a series of waterfalls; on the other, the road winds through narrow rock arches cut in the 1920s.

7 PM

End the day at Rancho de Chimayó, a 7-room hacienda-style inn (go for room “Siete,” which has a kiva fireplace) and 50-year-old restaurant, winner of a prestigious James Beard “American Classic” Award in 2016. And be sure not to miss anything covered in stewed green chiles.

LODGING: Jemez Hot Springs 
CAMPING: Jemez Falls Campgrounds 
SHOP: Walatowa Visitor Center

Taos takes hold of the senses in a profound way, and the landscape’s allure has inspired artists and thinkers for as long as man has known the powerful reaches of northern New Mexico. From Pop Chalee and Joseph Henry Sharp, to Georgia O’Keeffe and Ansel Adams, the great ones have tapped into this realm—but amateurs (and even the unskilled) follow the artist’s way here as well. Travelers channel that spirit with a pottery class at the Taos Clay Studio. Founded in 2002, the studio offers daily two-hour workshops that offer opportunities to glaze and fire previously-shaped works before jumping on the potter's wheel to throw clay. An unforgettable experience in an extraordinary landscape. Classes from $125, taosclay.com

LODGING: Mable Dodge Luhan House 
CAMPING: La Sombra Campground
SHOP: Two Graces

“The San Juan has a reputation as one of the best trout streams in the world, and it deserves it,” says High Desert Angler’s Norman Maktima, a Santa Fe-based fishing guide of Pueblo descent who has been fishing these waters since he was seven. “You’re looking at 15,000 fish per river mile–that’s off the charts for any stream, not just in the Southwest.” The river is what fishermen call a tailwater, immediately downstream from a dam, which moderates the temperature and makes for good fishing year-round. But what really draws anglers are trophy-sized brown and rainbow trout. Neither are native to New Mexico—browns were imported from Germany and rainbows first observed in Siberia’s Kamchatka peninsula. But some of the best specimens anywhere live in the San Juan, regularly growing to rod-bending, line-snapping proportions.

LODGING: Fisheads San Juan River Lodge 
CAMPING: Navajo Lake State Park
SHOP: Float ‘N Fish

Antelope Point Marina rests on the southwest shores of Lake Powell, offering an ideal starting point for an aquatic adventure. Study up to get the most out of a quick trip.

SELECTION

Smaller groups are easily accommodated by the 50-foot Forever model (2 bed/2 bath), while the 75-foot XTreme can sleep up to 15 people.

AMENITIES

Water slides, grills, full kitchens and private bed/bathrooms come standard issue on all houseboats. Larger models include hot tubs, too.

BOOKING

Reserve at least a month in advance, particularly for a summer trip.

ESSENTIALS

Bring sunscreen, water and a sweatshirt.

MAPS

Each boat comes equipped with a GPS. Be mindful of buoy markers and bring a back-up print map, available for purchase at any of Lake Powell’s five marinas.

SIGHTS

Padre Bay offers room to spread out without sacrificing views of either Cookie Jar Butte or Boundary Butte, which denotes the Utah-Arizona state line. For a day trip to Rainbow Bridge, head toward Forbidding Canyon and moor the boat. From the dock, it’s a short hike to see the stunning arch up close. Wherever you go, take note of one seriously important rule: absolutely no cliff jumping. 911 Tune your radio to channel 16 (the emergency hailing and distress frequency) and relay coordinates for assistance.

FOOD AND DRINK

Stock up on sandwiches and snacks at Antelope Point’s Market Place Store. For drinks, look for the sunny yellow awning of Fred’s Liquor Store.

LODGING: Lake Powell Resort 
CAMPING: Wahweap Campground
SHOP: Doc N Stock

Beyond the bright lights, mind-blowing natural landscape surrounding the city puts on its own show.

RED ROCK CANYON 

Bike or drive the 13-mile scenic drive loop to gaze at stunning vistas of the Keystone Thrust Fault. Ancient limestone and rusted sandstone create the canyon’s namesake colors. 1000 Scenic Loop Dr

PETROGLYPH CANYON

For a portal to the past, hike the Petroglyph Trail at Sloan Canyon National Conservation Area, site of hundreds of rock-art designs created by Native peoples with deep history in the region. 2998 Nawghaw Poa Rd, Henderson

TULE SPRINGS FOSSIL BEDS

This rustic new national monument has no facilities or visitor center. But what it lacks in amenities, it makes up for with an abundance of Ice Age fossils, dating back 12,500 to 100,000 years. 16001 Corn Creek Rd

ELDORADO CANYON MINE TOURS

Explore the oldest gold mine in Southern Nevada and the surrounding historical miners’ camp, Nelson Ghost Town. Oh, and you can get married here—it’s Vegas, baby! 16880 State Highway 165, Nelson

DESERT VIEW OVERLOOK

Once the best place to watch the Nevada Test Site’s atomic explosions. Now the best place to view the nuclear craters left behind on the Mojave Desert floor. (And a great excuse to visit snowy Mount Charleston.) Deer Creek Rd, Spring Mountains National Recreation Area

VALLEY OF FIRE STATE PARK

Venture into a martian world of bright red rock formations, petrified trees and millenias-old petroglyphs. Start with White Domes Trail or Mouse’s Tank. 29450 Valley of Fire Hwy, Overton

LODGING: The English Hotel 
CAMPING: Hitchin’ Post RV Park 
SHOP: Paradise Antique Mall